Why it matters
The producer
Dark, tannic wines heavily influenced by oak marked Thierry Germain's early work after he came from Bordeaux to settle in Varrains. He later cut back on winemaking and focused more on the vineyard, moving the domaine toward organic and then biodynamic farming.
Domaine des Roches Neuves was founded in 1850 by the Duveau family and acquired by Thierry and Marie Germain in 1991. The conversion to organic winegrowing took place in the late 1990s, followed by biodynamic methods in the early 2000s. Those methods use plant based preparations, limited sulfur and respect for the lunar calendar.
Place and vineyards
Where the wines begin
Porous tuffeau limestone stores humidity and redistributes it during intense drought. The domaine is in Varrains, 5 km south of Saumur, in the Loire Valley. Its red wines carry the Saumur-Champigny appellation and its white wines carry Saumur. Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc divide the range between those two colors.
Wines to know
The range in view
The range follows the two appellations. L'Échelier is a Saumur white made from Chenin Blanc. Alcoholic fermentation takes place in 600 liter oval barrels with 52 mm thick walls over approximately three months, followed by 9 months on fine lees in underground cellars kept at low temperature.
Clos de L'Échelier is a Saumur-Champigny red made from Cabernet Franc. Fermentation takes place in a truncated conical Stoeckinger vat at 16°C to 24°C, with the grapes completely destemmed and vatting lasting 10 to 18 days.