Why it matters
The producer
At Alikampos, Andreas Dourakis works with grape varieties that the winery identifies as indigenous to Crete. He studied winemaking in Germany and developed his skills at wineries in northern Greece before returning home. Dourakis Winery includes Eleni Dourakis, Andreas's wife, their son, an oenologist, and their daughter Evie, who handles administration and marketing.
Andreas describes the house style plainly: each grape variety should show its own character. The wines named here follow that approach through Romeiko, Malvasia di Candia Aromatica and Vidiano, each made as a separate varietal wine.
Place and vineyards
Where the wines begin
Dourakis Winery is based in Alikampos, Chania, on Crete. The surrounding vineyards include small parcels around the winery, including the parcels selected for Lihnos Vidiano. The local range uses grapes associated with Crete, including Vidiano, Vilana, Muscat of Spinas, Malvasia and Kotsifali.
Alikampos is also the setting for the winery's family history. The family moved there in 1988, and Andreas laid out his plans for the winery in the house of his grandparents.
In the cellar
Vineyards and cellar
The vineyards are farmed organically and regeneratively, with Vidiano, Vilana, Muscat of Spinas, Malvasia and Kotsifali among the varieties cultivated. Lihnos Vidiano uses grapes that are organically farmed, hand harvested and selected from small vineyard parcels surrounding the winery.
Dourakis Romeiko is made entirely from Romeiko and aged for 24 months in oak barrels. Zelos Aromatica is made entirely from Malvasia di Candia Aromatica and aged for six months in stainless steel. Lihnos Vidiano is made entirely from Vidiano and aged for six months in stainless steel and oak barrel on the lees. Lees are spent yeast cells, and ageing with them can add a fuller texture to white wine.
Wines to know
The range in view
The range divides into distinct grape and colour categories. Romeiko is an orange de noir, an orange coloured wine made from a red grape. Zelos Aromatica is a dry white from Malvasia di Candia Aromatica, while Lihnos Vidiano is a dry white from Vidiano.
The bottles therefore move between orange wine and dry white wine, with each of the three named wines made from one grape variety. Lihnos Vidiano has a stated drinking window of up to five years.
A useful way in
A bottle to begin with
Choose Dourakis Romeiko. It is an orange de noir made from 100% Romeiko, the red grape named on the bottle, and aged for 24 months in oak barrels. The wine sits apart from the two dry whites through its colour, grape and long oak élevage. Orange de noir describes both the orange coloured style and its origin in a red grape.