Why it matters
The producer
Kumeu River Wines is based in Kumeu, West Auckland, and remains owned and operated by the Brajkovich family. The winery produces around 250,000 bottles annually. Its range includes Kumeu Village Chardonnay and Estate Chardonnay.
The Brajkovich family's first generation in New Zealand came from Živogošće, a Croatian village where Mick and Katé Brajkovich tended vines and made wine. The family arrived in New Zealand in the late 1930s. By 1944, the Brajkovich family had established the Kumeu property.
Place and vineyards
Where the wines begin
Kumeu River Wines is based at 550 Highway 16 in Kumeu, West Auckland. Estate Chardonnay is a Kumeu wine drawn from vineyards in the Kumeu region. Village Chardonnay reaches beyond that home region by including Hawkes Bay fruit.
The Kumeu vineyards cover 30 hectares and lie predominantly on clay soils over sandstone. Those soils retain water at depth during summer, so the estate does not require irrigation. Lyre trellising improves light exposure and helps increase grape maturity and quality.
In the cellar
Vineyards and cellar
Milan Brajkovich is the vineyard director and manages 40 hectares, including 10 hectares belonging to regional growers who supply Kumeu River. All grapes are harvested by hand, allowing substandard fruit to be removed during picking.
The grapes are gently whole bunch pressed to extract the best possible juice, then fermented in French oak barrels. Fermentation relies on indigenous yeasts, with no added yeast. The 2024 Estate Chardonnay was wholly barrel fermented, completed malolactic fermentation and matured for 11 months in French oak.
Wines to know
The range in view
Kumeu Village Chardonnay is the entry level Chardonnay in the range. Estate Chardonnay is drawn from six vineyard sites in Kumeu. Together, the two bottles set a regional blend beside a Kumeu selection from multiple sites.
Village Chardonnay has lime and lemon aromas, with fig and white peach behind a flinty mineral palate. The texture is sleek and tightly coiled around salty acidity, and the finish is crisp.