Why it matters
The producer
Nicolas Ruinart founded Maison Ruinart in Reims on 1 September 1729. The house acquired ancient chalk quarries beneath the city for bottle storage in the mid-18th century. In 1764, it shipped what it calls the first rosé champagne across Europe. The family adopted the name Ruinart de Brimont in 1817 and continued to run the house for more than two centuries.
Across a 15-year period, Ruinart reports reducing chemical use by 50% and halving fungicide use. Vineyard trials include biocontrol products and adapted equipment. Since 2014, the Moët Hennessy-Ruinart vineyards have held both High Environmental Value and Sustainable Viticulture in Champagne certification.
Place and vineyards
Where the wines begin
Ruinart's chalk-cellar labyrinth extends for eight kilometres beneath Reims. Twenty pits occupy two levels and reach nearly 30 metres underground. The house identifies their humidity, temperature and light conditions as suited to ageing its wines.
Wines to know
The range in view
Ruinart Blanc de Blancs draws Chardonnay from roughly 25 to 30 crus, principally in the Côte des Blancs, Montagne de Reims, Sézannais and Vallée de la Vesle. The blend includes 20 to 30% reserve wine from multiple vintages and rests in the cellars for two to three years. Ripe citrus and tropical fruit meet lemon, apple, smooth creaminess, acidity and power. Roundness carries into a long, delicate finish.
Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 2013 is entirely Chardonnay from Grands and Premiers Crus, with 70% from the Côte des Blancs. It underwent temperature-controlled stainless-steel alcoholic fermentation and malolactic fermentation, followed by ageing under cork and at least nine years on its lees. Its straight, chiselled structure and crystalline freshness carry citrus and peppery notes through the finish.