Liguria

Across Liguria, the grapes change from Spezia to the western coast. Colli di Luni, Cinque Terre and Colline di Levanto use Vermentino, Albarola, Bosco, Ciliegiolo and Sangiovese. Around Genova, Bianchetta Genovese sits alongside Vermentino, Scimiscià, Moscato and Ciliegiolo. Between Savona and Imperia, growers work with Pigato, Vermentino, Moscatello, Rossese and Granaccia.

Cinque Terre makes both dry wine and sweet Sciacchetrà. Made from Bosco, Albarola and Vermentino, Sciacchetrà comes from grapes dried in the sun until November, then hand-shelled for selection. It can develop for ten, twenty or thirty years, with aromas that may recall dried fruit, apricot jam, yellow peach, vanilla, chestnut honey and spice. In the Genova area, Bianchetta Genovese grows inland and higher on the hills, making straw-yellow wines with grass, fresh fruit and flower aromas and a fresh, graceful palate.